Hermès & Steve Madden - Semiotic Brand Diagnosis
Background
Hermès and Steve Madden are two distinguished fashion brands with their own distinct brand narratives. Both relatively high-end labels within the fashion industry, it is the way the way in which the respective brands utilise semiotics that creates two entirely separate personalities, appealing to distinct demographics. I will explore this distinction through the analysis of the following two television advertisements in which the brands market footwear.
Hermès:
Steve Madden:
Steve Madden, the self-titled New York-based brand founded by Madden in 1990 is epitomised in the tagline found on its website:
"It's about authenticity. It's about embracing individuality. It's Steve Madden." (Steve Madden 2021).
The brand sells a range of apparel, however is most widely known for its uniquely designed, interesting shoes that are depicted in the above advertisement. The average price of a pair of Steve Madden shoes is $85 AUD (Steve Madden 2021).
Hermès, founded in 1837 is significantly more expensive, with much of the footwear costing over $2,000 AUD (Hermès 2021), however its marketing is clearly aimed at those who can afford the price tag. Its brand narrative, compared with that of Steve Madden, leans more sophisticated conceptually - represented on its website, which states its adherence to an "artisanal model and its humanist values." (Hermès 2021)
The difference between the two brands and their overall narrative is ostensible. Hermès represents a more formal, sophisticated image with an emphasis on class and timelessness. Steve Madden, whilst by no means "cheap", adheres more to the cool, trendy and out-of-the-box aesthetic. Both brands have a good reputation, they are just different from one another. These differences are seen in the above advertisements through their use of semiotics.
Key Signs and their Meaning-Making Processes
Colour Scheme
Hermès advertisement presents a neutral, sophisticated colour palette consisting of primarily beige tones. The shades of brown connotate sophistication, maturity, and a placid coolness. Here, colour is used as signification for the brands narrative of refined luxury.
Contrastingly, Steven Madden's ad features a wider colour spectrum – the colours are bright and saturated, and the shots are heavily filtered. The connotation here adheres with the brand's narrative of an edgy playfulness.
Editing
The music used in Hermès advertisement is unexpectedly quite edgy and upbeat. The electronic music is a signifier of the aspect of individuality and coolness that is true to the brand narrative, though not to the same extent as Steve Madden. Denotation is seen in the final text of Hermès advertisement, which reads ‘walking distance’ – denotative that the shoes are for walking, with comfort being taken into consideration.
Steve Madden, however, takes their brand concept of individuality and coolness and uses signs to translate it to their audience. This is most prevalent in their editing of the large bobble heads – different, unusual – a signifier true to their brand narrative of “authenticity” and “embracing individuality”. The music is loud and reminiscent of Bollywood – a symbol that ties in with the imagery in that the urban areas – places that are usually multicultural and diverse. Here, Steve Madden’s national reach is signified with the brand retailing in over 80 different countries.
Location
The physical setting for Hermès’ ad depicts clean and smooth parchment, mowed lawns, wide sidewalks, fancy architecture, grand buildings, columns and archways. The architecture is denotative of major fashion capital cities - Paris, New York and London. This signifies the brands narrative of being high class and respectable within the fashion industry.
In comparison, Steve Madden depicts a far more urban location – the setting depicts graffiti, thin roads with cross walks, brick apartment buildings with scaffolding and fire escapes, the subway, crowded inner city areas and colourful, eclectic shop windows. These factors come together to create an image of a natural freedom, signifying a coolness that is culturally associated with these things. The sterility of the setting in the Hermès advertisement, the crisp, put-together imagery is a sign in a symbolic mode – there is a direct link between the sign (sophisticated, classy imagery) and the brand and the product that it is selling. This is also true for Steve Madden’s ad – there is a direct link between the colours and aesthetics that we see in the background and the brand narrative.
Mise en Scene
Both advertisements include a scene with pets on leashes however Steve Madden’s ad radiates obscurity – the girl is holding a large animated duck on a leash. Hermès on the other hand shows the woman holding a dog on a leash – a dachshund specifically. There is symbolism in the use of this specific dog breed, as it is an expensive and desirable dog. There is no direct relationship between a dachshund and Hermès shoes, however the symbolism of an expensive and desirable dog reflects the brands narrative of lavishness and grandeur. This is signification.
Another parallel can be seen in the clothing of the women. Both ads depict the women dressed stylishly, however in different ways. Hermès shows modest clothing – stockings, at or below the knee dresses, simplistic clutches and briefcases. This sign translates another aspect of the brand narrative – its maturity.
Contrastingly, Steve Madden shows the women in crop tops and low cut jeans, big hairstyles, statement jewellery and heavy makeup. The appearance of the girls is connotative of Bratz dolls - specifically when taking into consideration the release date of the ad (mid 2000’s), when the dolls popularity was at its peak. This imagery symbolises youth and playfulness. There is an indexical link in the style of the clothing and more specifically the shoes in the ad, and that of Bratz dolls.
Myths and Codes
“Myth is associated with the signified and connotative meanings of a sign, reflecting cultural and historical values, worldviews, attitudes and beliefs” (Li 2021).
Here, the same myth pertains to both brands and advertisements - that buying and owning these shoes is desirable and will prove your socioeconomic value. As it is fashion, the signifiers focus on aesthetics and the desirability of aesthetics is that they can shape your personal brand.
One may be coded as “cool” and “trendy” if they wear Steve Madden, evidenced in their television ads, as well as other forms of advertising. Hermès, in comparison, is coded as “classic”.
Steve Madden Instagram post: https://www.instagram.com/p/CM...
Hermès Instagram post: https://www.instagram.com/p/CM...
Based on my research, the brand I resonate most with is Steve Madden - not only because of its more affordable prices. The edgier, more expansive style range evidences inclusivity. The playfulness of their brand paired with the fashionability reigns over Hermes classic aesthetic - the latter being slightly too monotonous for my liking.
